Tatiana- New York City
A Culinary Love Letter
Tatiana by Chef Kwame Onwauchi opened November 2022, to the anticipation of many culinary aficionados around the world. The expressed admiration and excitement from Chef Kwame’s community and fans for the next steps in his culinary journey is an enormous & highly admirable accomplishment that is well deserved.
Let’s start at the beginning…reservations. I attempted to make reservations online a few weeks in advance without much luck. When traveling solo for business or pleasure, making a reservation for one person can be a little challenging, which is understandable from a business perspective. A few social media posts later, quite a few people suggested arriving 1 hour before opening in hopes of securing a seat at the bar. The early arrival suggestion wasn’t in the cards for me that day. It’s 80°F on a beautiful Saturday night with a looming peach sunset at 7:30 pm without a reservation. It was a gamble, but I was determined to dine at Tatiana before I left NYC.
“Momma, I made it!”
As I walked toward David Geffen Hall in the Lincoln Center, my eyes were diverted to a line of roughly 12 guests eagerly awaiting converted spots at the bar. I was warmly greeted by 2 impeccably dressed hostesses and secretly prayed for a seat at the table, bar, patio, anywhere! There was 1 seat available at the bar with the remaining 6 occupied by pairs and I was lucky number 7. In a world geared toward couples or groups, this is a reminder there are many wins for solo diners/travelers too.
I never inform the staff at any restaurant in advance when I intend to review the dining experience. At times, I’m sure the sheer quantity of food can be surprising for one person! Once seated, I was immediately greeted by both bartenders and had the pleasure of being served by Francisco. The entire hospitality staff throughout the evening including the other bartender, front-of-house manager, and hostess were warm and attentive throughout my 2-hour dining experience. This genuine attentiveness sets restaurants apart and keeps guests returning for more.
The Food
Given I have an allergy to all fish except crustaceans, I’m always cognizant of the care & knowledge of the restaurant staff. I’ve been eyeing this restaurant for over a year and had my sights set on a few menu items. To my surprise and gratitude, I was informed the same oil is used to fry multiple items including fish, okra, and the infamous curried goat patty. I was crushed! The curried goat patty was high on my list and left me searching for a new option. I sincerely hope there’s an opportunity to sample the patty and fried okra in the future if fried in separate oil. Beyond my personal experience, I am appreciative of this life of alternating attention to detail by the staff for all guests.
Every published article notes the homage to the cultural and culinary melting pot of Chef Kwame’s upbringing and influences of NYC and beyond. From the egusi dumplings, braised oxtails, and short rib pastrami suya, it is evident at first sight. On a deeper level, this approach to a dining experience resonates with me deeply. I’m a Chicago-born and raised girl with cultural roots engrained in the Deep South. From childhood throughout my teenage and adulthood years, my dinner table has always been filled with foods once considered exotic and strange by the masses. Jerk chicken, pad woon sen, smothered chicken, jollof rice, tostadas, gumbo, corned beef & cabbage, doubles, dukunu, this list can continue forever! When I look at this menu I see a reflection of not only my culture but a nostalgic reminder of my friends, family, and the people I’ve crossed paths with in this lifetime. This deeper connection to people, culture, and food served at Tatiana is a gem.
I began the night with the POG Nutcracker which instantly reminded me of the West Indian Parade on Eastern Parkway in Brooklyn. Served in an elegant coupe glass (s/o to the beloved quarter water plastic jugs) is the perfect balance of acidity with the guava and passionfruit forward notes. For dinner, I enjoyed the short rib pastrami suya with the freshly baked caraway coco bread. The pastrami was tender with the right amount of saltiness. The mustard jus took it to the next level, utterly delicious even for someone who dislikes mustard. I love this take on a New York meets Nigeria classic pastrami sandwich. Per Francisco’s suggestion, the pepper sauce gave me the heat needed. Amazing!
I would venture to say the expresso martini at Tatiana should serve as the blueprint for expresso martinis worldwide. Made with freshly brewed expresso daily, it delivers the bold, deeply rich, and slightly bitter notes craved by coffee lovers. It was the perfect pairing for the bodega special dessert- an ode to the classic frosting iced brownie and powdered sugar mini doughnuts. This brownie has matured into a deeply complex dark chocolate brownie complete with an inverted sugar crust and chocolate ganache. Vanilla ice cream is molded into the shape of mini doughnuts and dusted with powdered sugar and what I presume to be cornstarch (perhaps potato or tapioca) to maintain the white appearance and not rapidly dissolve into the ice cream. What a whimsical nod to childhood, enjoyed with an espresso martini instead of a grape or orange quarter water!
Closing Thoughts